One day in St Petersburg is usually a forced format: a layover, a business trip, a cruise stop. Time is short, and the city is laid out in a way that makes running in all directions especially tempting. Do not run.

The rule that saves the day: pick one big thing, and spend the rest of the day walking. Trying to squeeze the Hermitage, Peterhof and St Isaac's into twelve hours ends with remembering nothing but the exhaustion.

A route that works

The good news: the essential St Petersburg is compact, and almost everything below is walkable.

Morning. Palace Square. Arrive around nine, while it is still empty. The square with the Alexander Column, the Winter Palace, the sweep of the General Staff Building — this is the first impression worth getting up early for. Then walk out to the Neva and the Palace Bridge.

Late morning. Your one big thing. This is the fork, and you pick exactly one:

Lunch and the afternoon. From Palace Square walk down Nevsky Prospect: the Kazan Cathedral with its colonnade, the Singer House, the Griboyedov Canal. Turn off to the Savior on Spilled Blood — you need not even go inside, it is the city's defining shot from the outside. Then the Mikhailovsky Garden and Arts Square.

Evening. Water. St Petersburg has to be seen from the water; it changes your sense of the place. An hour-long canal cruise is inexpensive and leaves from several moorings on the Moyka and the Fontanka. If a boat does not appeal, simply walk the embankment from the Palace Bridge to the Spit of Vasilyevsky Island, where the view opens on both sides.

What not to attempt in a single day

Do not go to Peterhof or Tsarskoye Selo. Either trip is half a day once travel is counted, and it will consume your entire visit. The palaces outside the city are wonderful — and they are a separate trip.

Do not book two museums. After the Hermitage nothing else registers; everyone who has tried can confirm this.

Do not chase the bridge opening if you leave in the morning. The bridges lift after 1 a.m. It is beautiful, and you will spend the next day in a fog. Unless you are catching a night train, in which case it is perfect.

If your day falls in the White Nights

From late May to mid-July there is effectively no darkness, which changes the schedule: the evening stretches to midnight and you can keep walking, but sleeping is harder — hotel curtains do not always save you. In this season it makes sense to shift the whole day a couple of hours later and save the best walk for eleven at night.

Practical notes

The metro here is deep, and getting down and up takes noticeably longer than the map suggests. Distances in the centre are short — walking is often faster.

Monday and Tuesday are risky: museums keep different closing days, and most shut on Monday. Check your specific date in advance.

Dress in layers and carry an umbrella in any season. The weather turns through the day, and the wind off the water is cold even in summer.

Getting in from the airport

Pulkovo is not far from the city, but no metro line reaches it: a bus to Moskovskaya and then the metro is the cheapest route, a taxi the fastest. With luggage and a tight schedule — and with only one day, your schedule is tight by definition — booking a car in advance is the saner option. Carriers quote their own prices for the Pulkovo run; you can send a request and compare.

Museum hours, boat timetables and the bridge-opening schedule all shift with the season. Check the official sites before you go — with a single day in the city, a scheduling mistake is expensive.